Un Emile is an absinthe which debuted a few years ago to generally low-to-middle reviews. The recipe has been reformulated recently, and has just now hit the market. I was fortunate enough to have gotten a bottle as a gift with purchase at the end of February, and I wasn't sure what to expect.

To start with, the fragrance and taste are strong with what seems like a mix of extra hyssop and perhaps a little lavender, but as I'm not certain about the particulars, only that it is very meadowlike without being the least bit grassy. The color is a little bit thin, having too much yellow, but it's not bad.

I tried the drink first at a ratio of 4.5:1, but realized that was too far too much water. When I tried it again at 2.5:1 and 3:1 though, this absinthe really shined. I think folks who like the powerful aroma of Berthe de Joux will enjoy this one, as the Un Emile 45 also has a strong (but more herbal and less floral) scent, and tastes best with a reduced water-to-absinthe ratio. Regardless of the amount of water used, the louche is a bit oily and unspectacular.

I never had a chance to try the original formulation, but I like the "springtime" feel of the new Un Emile 45 very much. Although it has an unusual profile and would never be a daily drink for me, this would be welcome as a first absinthe of the day on a hot summer afternoon (not least because the finish doesn't last very long, and as such keeps your palate ready for the next drink).

While I wouldn't recommend this one as a benchmark absinthe for someone new, Un Emile is a fine treat for the right occasion and a very good bargain for the price.